Fixing Fairings

[ars0n]

all items can be bought at your local auto parts store, Home Depot, or Lowes.

(disclaimer: i know someone will have a different way of doing this. i am simply posting a how i repair fiberglass. there are many different ways to repair fiberglass but i've found doing it this way is best IMO. holla!)


tools / products needed:


orbital sander with 80/120/400 grit sandpaper (it can be done by all hand BUT the sander saves time ... trust me!)

rotary tool with sanding bit

fiberglass mat - you can use fiberglass cloth but the mat work better

fiberglass resin / resin hardener

paint thinner or acetone / tin can for cleaning brush after use

baby powder ... just listen

paper plates

1 1/2 inch paint brush

(optional: glazing spot putty and plastic spreader ... see pic below)

items not pictured:
400 grit sandpaper sheets.
latex gloves
sponge


i am repairing my lower fairing where the dzus fastener was ripped out.


1. remove frayed edges with rotary tool or sander

2. use sander/80 grit to scuff repair area. wipe down with wet sponge to remove any dust.



3. cut fiberglass mat slightly smaller than the total area to be covered. i use a piece on the outside and one one the inside of the fairing for strength.

4. mix fiberglass resin and baby powder onto paper plate (about 2oz per for a small job like this, give or take). the baby powder thickens the resin so it doesn't run all over the place when curing. it also removes a lot of the air bubbles. keep adding powder until it's the consistency of pancake batter (yes pancake batter  .. shit, i couldn't think of anything else  )


5. add about 10-12 drops of hardener to resin/powder and mix throughly. you might use more/less depending on the size of the repair.

6. dab resin onto fairing with paint brush, just enough for a thin film.

7. apply fiberglass mat to both inside and outside of fairing. use brush to dab on more resin, enough to saturate the mat and surrounding area about 1/2 inch. DO NOT brush resin onto mat as this will slide the mat all over the place. just dab it baby. allow about 2 hours for resin to cure. it should look like this when cured. see below.



8. use sander/80 grit to knock off the high stuff from the inside/outside of fairing. use 400 grit to smooth out and blend in with the rest of the fairing. wipe down with wet sponge to remove any dust. see below.



9. (optional) i apply spot putty to fill in any pits or low spots. only on the outside though as the inside is never seen.


let dry 20mins, use sander/120 grit, then smooth out by hand using 400 grit. wipe down with wet sponge to remove any dust.



11. it should look like this.



12. re-drill the fastener hole and it's ready for primer/paint.





post any questions/comments you may have.[/size]

[ars0n]

CONT:


]tool/products needed:

orbital sander with 150grit sandpaper

rotary tool (dremel or equivalent)

soldering iron

120 / 400 grit sheet sandpaper

scissors

carpet knife

exacto knife

card stock (you can use a 3 x 5 notecard or any stiff paper)

pencil or pen

sheet of ABS plastic (the sheet below is about 22in x 16in x 1/8in thick, cost less than $5. i bought it from a custom display cabinet maker. this will last forever.)


i will be filling in one of the missing pieces off my rear cowl just below the mounting tab on the left.




let's begin, shall we 


1. trace an outline of missing area using cardstock.


2. cut out piece and place it on ABS sheet.


3. use exacto knife to trace outline of piece in ABS.

4. cut piece out with the carpet knife. DO NOT use the exacto knife to cut ABS, the blade is thin and may break off, it may also break off in your hand 


5. use sander to scuff area around the missing piece on the fairing, so you're not welding paint.

6. match it to the fairing. it doesn't have to be perfect.


7. use soldering iron and tack ABS piece into place. make a deep groove along the seams. go about 1/2-2/3 of the way through. use the soldering iron to fill in the groove and smooth it out as you go. weld a little outside the break to get a strong bond. let it cool for about 10mins. it should look like this.


8. do the inside as well for a stronger bond. use soldering iron to smooth the inside if you want but it's not neccessary.


9. use sander to knock of the high stuff.

10. use rotary tool to make edge flush.

11. use 120 and 400 by hand to blend in and smooth with surrounding area. now you're ready for primer/paint.


smooth as a gravy sammich 

post any questions/comments you may have.

other missing sections getting repaired.

[ars0n]

filled in and ready for sanding




[SIZE=3]before


[SIZE=3]after